Cram the outer CV boot over the outer axle end (it's not fun), then slip the clamp over the boot. Then pull the clamp as tight as you can by hand and latch it in place, and use the CV clamp pliers to tighten it down. Note the axle splines at the top of the pic - remember them, we'll get back to that later.
You can see that at 3y/22K miles, the “Rein” INNER CV boot is still fine but the “Rein” OUTER CV boot is cracked! As I mentioned in previous thread, my original CV boot lasted some 10y/90K miles when it was replaced.
Fill the axle end cup almost full of grease. Then install the inner CV boot as you did the outer CV boot. Note there may be 2 depressions on the axle the small end of the boot can go on, but it will be obvious which one to use, as you don't want to have to stretch or compress the boot much to fit it onto the depression.
The CV boots flex as the CV joints flex, which fatigues the rubber. The outer CV joints flex more than the inner, since they flex as the car is steered, so the outer boots are more likely to tear. When the CV boot tears and the the tear is noticed quickly, the CV joint can be cleaned and repacked and the boot replaced. If the torn CV boot is not noticed in time and the joint is damaged, either the joint is replaced with a new one or the entire axle is replaced with a rebuilt unit. When CV boots are new, they are soft and supple and have no cracks. As they age the become harder and begin to crack. We classify CV boot condition in one of 4 ways: good, lightly cracked, heavily cracked, and torn. The outer CV boots can be seen by turing the steering wheel to the end of it’s travel and looking at the center of the back side of the front wheels.